Who s Who in British Climbing

Who's Who in British Climbing contains nearly 700 mini biographies of climbers - the romantics, eccentrics and buffoons that have made British Climbing what it is: dissolute and hungover most of the time, with the odd unexpected burst of ...


Author: Colin Wells

Publisher: Climbing Company Limited

ISBN: 0955660106

Category: Mountaineers

Page: 575

View: 682

Who's Who in British Climbing contains nearly 700 mini biographies of climbers - the romantics, eccentrics and buffoons that have made British Climbing what it is: dissolute and hungover most of the time, with the odd unexpected burst of brilliance. They form a world class cast of eccentrics ranging from the most virtuous to the most hedonistically barbarous characters one could ever hope to meet. At one end of the moral spectrum we have Archdeacon Hudson Stuck solemnly tutoring his native charges on ecclesiastical history while making the first ascent of Denali. At the other there's Satan-loving Aleister Crowley pleasuring himself in his tent on Kangchenjunga while his helpless avalanched companions were crying for help a few yards away. In between are the usual sprinkling of psychotic nut jobs, consummate show-offs and infuriatingly brilliant athletes. The selection of folk gracing the pages has been anything but scientifically objective. The intention has been to include anyone who was born in Britain who happened to do something significant or interesting anywhere, not just in the UK.

Unjustifiable Risk

The Story of British Climbing Simon Thompson. 28. 29. 30. 31. 32. 33. 34. 35. 36. 37. 38. 39. 40. 41. 42. 43. ... 3 Quoted in Wells, Who's Who in British Climbing, p. 138 Ibid., p. 134 A. Cave, Learning to Breathe (London: Hutchinson, ...


Author: Simon Thompson

Publisher: Cicerone Press Limited

ISBN: 9781849656993

Category: Travel

Page: 400

View: 936

To the impartial observer Britain does not appear to have any mountains. Yet the British invented the sport of mountain climbing and for two periods in history British climbers led the world in the pursuit of this beautiful and dangerous obsession. Unjustifiable Risk is the story of the social, economic and cultural conditions that gave rise to the sport, and the achievements and motives of the scientists and poets, parsons and anarchists, villains and judges, ascetics and drunks that have shaped its development over the past two hundred years. The history of climbing inevitably reflects the wider changes that have occurred in British society, including class, gender, nationalism and war, but the sport has also contributed to changing social attitudes to nature and beauty, heroism and death. Over the years, increasing wealth, leisure and mobility have gradually transformed climbing from an activity undertaken by an eccentric and privileged minority into a sub-division of the leisure and tourist industry, while competition, improved technology and information, and increasing specialisation have helped to create climbs of unimaginable difficulty at the leading edge of the sport. But while much has changed, even more has remained the same. Today's climbers would be instantly recognisable to their Victorian predecessors, with their desire to escape from the crowded complexity of urban society and willingness to take "unjustifiable" risk in pursuit of beauty, adventure and self-fulfilment. Unjustifiable Risk was shortlisted for the Boardman Tasker prize in 2011.

The Climbing Dictionary

Mountaineering Slang, Terms, Neologisms & Lingo: An Illustrated Reference Matt Samet ... Climbing No. 252, October 2006, 58–67. Taylor, Ross.“The Guy Whose Nuts Revolutionized Climbing.” Rock andIce No. 192, March 2011, 56–59.


Author: Matt Samet

Publisher: The Mountaineers Books

ISBN: 9781594855030

Category: Sports & Recreation

Page: 288

View: 846

* 130 black-and-white illustrations * A reference to more than 660 terms from climbers and mountaineers * Perfect stocking stuffer! In this hilarious yet authoritative illustrated lexicon of climbing terms and slang, former Climbing Editor-in-Chief Matt Samet has compiled a reference of more than 650 terms used by climbers and mountaineers around the world. The Climbing Dictionary runs the gamut from technical terms (belay, harness, rappel, Stopper) to slang (dab, choking the cobra, gaston, old dad, pimpy), to regional (such as the South's "baby-butt" slopers), antiquated ("press-up"), and foreign terms that have achieved universal usage (au cheval, colonnette) and much more. Each word's definition includes its part of speech, origin (if known), its meaning, and a humorous but factually sound example sentence to demonstrate usage. Throughout the dictionary, Mike Tea's illustrations -- both technical and humorous -- help explain harder-to-define terms such as piton, sling, cam, hand jam, or drop-knee. Sure to become the reference -- or even the sicktionary -- for novice climbers and expert mountaineers alike. Are you obsessed with "climbing-ese"? Know a term, back-story, or phrase that didn't make the book? Connect with Matt on climbingterms.com and check out newly submitted terms, submit your very own, and stay up to date on all things the Climbing Dictionary. While you're at it, be sure and"like" the Climbing Dictionary on Facebook, and follow Matt on Twitter.

Himalayan Dreaming

Australian Mountaineering in the Great Ranges of Asia, 1922-1990 Will Steffen ... Bonington has been on nearly 20 Himalayan expeditions and the list of those with whom he has climbed is a virtual who's who of British climbing.


Author: Will Steffen

Publisher: ANU E Press

ISBN: 9781921666179

Category: Sports & Recreation

Page: 593

View: 229

How did climbers from the world's flattest, hottest continent become world-class Himalayan mountaineers, the equal of any elite mountaineer from countries with long climbing traditions and home ranges that make Australia's highest summit look like a suburban hill? This book tells the story of Australian mountaineering in the great ranges of Asia, from the exploits of a brash, young colonial with an early British Himalayan expedition in the 1920s to the coming of age of Australian climbers in the 1980s. The story goes beyond the two remarkable Australian ascents of Mt Everest in 1984 and 1988 to explore the exploits of Australian climbers in the far-flung corners of the high Himalaya. Above all, the book presents a glimpse into the lives - the successes, failures, tragedies, motivations, fears, conflicts, humor, and compassion - themselves to the ultimate limits of survival in the most spectacular and demanding mountain arena of all.

Sports Around the World

Climbing in Britain (1946). This was written with a view to inform the influx of “untutored masses” into the countryside, thereby indicating the influence of the mountains on a much broader social constituency than the climbing ...


Author: John Nauright

Publisher: ABC-CLIO

ISBN: 9781598843002

Category: Social Science

Page: 1848

View: 329

This multivolume set is much more than a collection of essays on sports and sporting cultures from around the world: it also details how and why sports are played wherever they exist, and examines key charismatic athletes from around the world who have transcended their sports. * Nearly 900 entries cover most aspects of sport from around the world * Contributions from more than 200 distinguished scholars, such as Mark Dyreson, Henning Eichberg, Malcolm MacLean, S.W. Pope, and Rob Ruck * Entries on players, stadiums, arenas, famous games and matches, major scandals, and disasters * Lists of Olympic medalists for all events since 1896 as well as lists of winners of major events such as the FIFA World Cup and MLB World Series * Further reading selections provide direction for in-depth analysis of each event, sport, personality, or issue discussed

The Sunlit Summit

The First Fifty Years of the British Mountaineering Council, 1 Wallace, William, 1n Ward, Michael, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6n, 7, ... Colin, 1n, 2, 3n A Brief History of Mountaineering, 1n Who's Who in British Climbing, 1n Wells, H.G., 1 Wemyss, ...


Author: Robin Lloyd-Jones

Publisher: Sandstone Press Ltd

ISBN: 9781908737397

Category: Biography & Autobiography

Page: 386

View: 838

William Hutchison Murray (1913 - 1996) was one of Scotland's most distinguished climbers in the years before and after the Second World War. As a prisoner of war in Italy he wrote his first classic book, Mountaineering in Scotland, on rough toilet paper which was confiscated and destroyed by the Gestapo. The rewritten version was published in 1947 and followed by the, now, equally famous, Undiscovered Scotland. In 1951 he was depute leader to Eric Shipton on the Everest Reconnaissance Expedition, which discovered the eventual successful route which would be climbed by Hilary and Tensing. From the 1960s onwards he was heavily involved in conservation campaigns and his book, Highland Landscape, commissioned by the National Trust for Scotland, identified areas of outstanding beauty that should be protected. It proved to be extremely influential. In 1966 he was awarded an OBE as he pursued a life of service, as is well illustrated by the various posts he held: Commissioner for the Countryside Commission for Scotland (1968-1980); President of the Scottish Mountaineering Club (1962-1964) and of the Ramblers Association Scotland (1966-82); Chairman of Scottish Countryside Activities Council (1967-82); Vice-President of the Alpine Club (1971-72); President of Mountaineering Council of Scotland (1972-75). He was a prolific author but a proper understanding of his life and work requires that we appreciate that his driving force was a quest to achieve inner purification that would lead him to oneness with Truth and Beauty. For many years the climber, author and teacher, Robin Lloyd-Jones (above) has been researching the life and work of Bill Murray and working steadily on this biography. It is not only a triumph of fine writing and interest, but a worthy accolade for this great man.

The Ogre

and the Alps, he had also notched up a number of impressive ascents in the UK, for example the Old Man of Hoy in the ... all the many climbs and honours Chris has received – so many that in the Who's Who in British Climbing the editor ...


Author: Doug Scott

Publisher: Vertebrate Publishing

ISBN: 9781911342809

Category: Sports & Recreation

Page: 192

View: 503

Some mountains are high; some mountains are hard. Few are both. On the afternoon of 13 July 1977, having become the first climbers to reach the summit of the Ogre, Doug Scott and Chris Bonington began their long descent. In the minutes that followed, any feeling of success from their achievement would be overwhelmed by the start of a desperate fight for survival. And things would only get worse. Rising to over 7,000 metres in the centre of the Karakoram, the Ogre – Baintha Brakk – is notorious in mountaineering circles as one of the most difficult mountains to climb. First summited by Scott and Bonington in 1977 – on expedition with Paul ‘Tut’ Braithwaite, Nick Estcourt, Clive Rowland and Mo Anthoine – it waited almost twenty-four years for a second ascent, and a further eleven years for a third. The Ogre, by legendary mountaineer Doug Scott, is a two-part biography of this enigmatic peak: in the first part, Scott has painstakingly researched the geography and history of the mountain; part two is the long overdue and very personal account of his and Bonington’s first ascent and their dramatic week-long descent on which Scott suffered two broken legs and Bonington smashed ribs. Using newly discovered diaries, letters and audio tapes, it tells of the heroic and selfless roles played by Clive Rowland and Mo Anthoine. When the desperate climbers finally made it back to base camp, they were to find it abandoned – and themselves still a long way from safety. The Ogre is undoubtedly one of the greatest adventure stories of all time.

Imperial Vancouver Island

57 and 116; A. O. Wheeler, The Selkirk Mountains: A Guide for Mountain Pilgrims and Climbers (Winnipeg, ... 1950), 324 pp. and photos; Colin Wells, Who's Who in British Climbing (Buxton, Derbyshire, The Climbing Company, 2008), pp.


Author: J. F. Bosher

Publisher: Xlibris Corporation

ISBN: 9781450059633

Category: History

Page: 839

View: 938

"During the century 1850-1950 Vancouver Island attracted Imperial officers and other Imperials from India, the British Isles, and elsewhere in the Empire. Victoria was the main British port on the north-west Pacific Coast for forty years before the city of Vancouver was founded in 1886 to be the coastal terminus of the Canadian Pacific Railway. These two coastal cities were historically and geographically different. The Island joined Canada in 1871 and thirty-five years later the Royal Navy withdrew from Esquimalt, but Island communities did not lose their Imperial character until the 1950s."--P. [4] of cover.

Continental Divide A History of American Mountaineering

Scores of first ascents and new routes were put up by British climbers throughout the western Alps in the decade ... words of its most knowledgeable chronicler, “a Who's Who of the educated and professional classes of Victorian England.


Author: Maurice Isserman

Publisher: W. W. Norton & Company

ISBN: 9780393292527

Category: Sports & Recreation

Page: 448

View: 676

This magesterial and thrilling history argues that the story of American mountaineering is the story of America itself. In Continental Divide, Maurice Isserman tells the history of American mountaineering through four centuries of landmark climbs and first ascents. Mountains were originally seen as obstacles to civilization; over time they came to be viewed as places of redemption and renewal. The White Mountains stirred the transcendentalists; the Rockies and Sierras pulled explorers westward toward Manifest Destiny; Yosemite inspired the early environmental conservationists. Climbing began in North America as a pursuit for lone eccentrics but grew to become a mass-participation sport. Beginning with Darby Field in 1642, the first person to climb a mountain in North America, Isserman describes the exploration and first ascents of the major American mountain ranges, from the Appalachians to Alaska. He also profiles the most important American mountaineers, including such figures as John C. Frémont, John Muir, Annie Peck, Bradford Washburn, Charlie Houston, and Bob Bates, relating their exploits both at home and abroad. Isserman traces the evolving social, cultural, and political roles mountains played in shaping the country. He describes how American mountaineers forged a "brotherhood of the rope," modeled on America’s unique democratic self-image that characterized climbing in the years leading up to and immediately following World War II. And he underscores the impact of the postwar "rucksack revolution," including the advances in technique and style made by pioneering "dirtbag" rock climbers. A magnificent, deeply researched history, Continental Divide tells a story of adventure and aspiration in the high peaks that makes a vivid case for the importance of mountains to American national identity.

The Story of White Hall Centre

Rock climbers do sometimes fall out with each other, but usually the arguments take place in writing, ... Looking even casually at that period opens up a who's who of the Climbers' Club, the Oread and other climbing and caving clubs.


Author: Pete McDonald

Publisher: Pete McDonald

ISBN: 9780473428884

Category: Sports & Recreation

Page: 700

View: 886


It was by now occupied by many tents, and the list of climbers who'd congregated there was like a who's who of some of the biggest names in British climbing, including the very famous Joe Brown. He'd already heard about our epic and now ...


Author: Gordon Stainforth

Publisher: Mountaineers Books

ISBN: 9781594858475

Category: Sports & Recreation

Page: 224

View: 485

CLICK HERE to download the first 50 pages from Fiva “A wonderful, nostalgic, gripping, classic yarn with great humour.” —Joe simpson, author of Touching the Void * A classic tale of how youthful bravado leads to serious trouble * Winner, Mountain Literature Award, Banff Festival 2012 * Finalist, Boardman-Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature, 2012 In 1969, teenage twin brothers Gordon and John Stainforth set out from their home in Hertfordshire, England, to climb the highest rock face in Europe — Norway’s Troll Wall. The route they targeted is called “Fiva” (pronounced “fever”). Poor judges of their own abilities, experience, and gear, they began the climb convinced they would return to their tent in time for afternoon tea. Within hours of starting the route, things went terribly wrong. Fiva is the story that Gordon Stainforth lived to tell, 40 years later. While it’s a tale that climbers will embrace, the adventure is one that all readers of non-fiction adventure will enjoy and find absorbing. It’s a story of innocence, brotherly love, youthful folly, and of danger, danger, and more danger.

Who s who Among Living Authors of Older Nations

A.C. , zur Geschichte und Heimatkunde ; Archiv des Climber's , Fell and Rock Climbing Club of histor . Vereins für Unterfranken . Contributor English Lake District . Relig . denom . Anguto Archivalische Zeitschrift , ( München ) ...


Author: Alberta Chamberlain Lawrence


ISBN: UCAL:B4469037

Category: Authors


View: 685

1997 American Alpine Journal

For those interested in Alaska in particular and mountaineering history in general , Alaska Ascents , a compilation of l7 stories written by climbers who could serve as a Who's Who of Alaska mountaineering ( Washburn , Beckey , Cassin ...



Publisher: The Mountaineers Books

ISBN: 1933056444

Category: Sports & Recreation


View: 651

Climbing Days

got married, I went over to England to their wedding.' * Peter Boardman was a hero to Tim and a great many other young climbers in the 1970s. Eschewing the siege approach of earlier Himalayan climbs – teams of climbers supported by tens ...


Author: Dan Richards

Publisher: Faber & Faber

ISBN: 9780571311941

Category: Travel

Page: 400

View: 809

In Climbing Days, Dan Richards is on the trail of his great-great-aunt, Dorothy Pilley, a prominent and pioneering mountaineer of the early twentieth century. For years, Dorothy and her husband, I. A. Richards, remained mysterious to Dan, but the chance discovery of her 1935 memoir, Climbing Days, leads him on a journey. Perhaps, in the mountains, he can meet them halfway? Following in the pair's footholds, Dan begins to travel and climb across Europe, using Dorothy's book as a guide. Learning the ropes in Wales and Scotland, scrambling in the Lake District, scaling summits in Spain and Switzerland, he closes in on the serrate pinnacle of Ivor and Dorothy's climbing lives, the mighty Dent Blanche in the high Alps of Valais. What emerges is a beautiful portrait of a trailblazing woman, up to now lost to history - but also a book about that eternal question: why do people climb mountains?

Clouds from Both Sides

The story of the first British woman to climb an 8,000-metre peak Julie Tullis ... Our visitor's cook looked like an international who's who of the climbing fraternity, and our takings compared with many of the London climbing shops.


Author: Julie Tullis

Publisher: Vertebrate Publishing

ISBN: 9781911342687

Category: Biography & Autobiography

Page: 242

View: 391

‘If I could choose a place to die, it would be in the mountains.’ Clouds from Both Sides is the autobiography of Julie Tullis, the first British woman to climb an 8,000-metre peak – Broad Peak – and the first to reach the summit of K2, the world’s second-highest mountain. A truly remarkable woman, Julie describes her early days in a London disrupted by World War II; her family life, climbing, teaching and living by the sandstone outcrops of High Rocks and Harrison’s Rocks in Tunbridge Wells, Kent; and her experience as a high-level mountaineer and filmmaker. Tullis demonstrates her determination and self-discipline through training to black-belt standard in both judo and aikido, and never allows financial concerns to keep her away from the high mountains – a place where she felt at peace. Filled with vivid accounts of frostbite, avalanches, snow blindness and exhilaration alongside her climbing partner Kurt Diemberger, Clouds from Both Sides takes us to Yosemite, Nanga Parbat, Everest and K2. First published in 1986 before her death, and with an additional chapter written by Peter Gillman documenting Tullis’s final, fated expedition to K2, this story is as relevant and awe inspiring today as it ever was. Tullis’s achievements are timeless and her attitudes and opinions far ahead of their time. Clouds from Both Sides is a tribute to the memory of an inspirational woman determined to strive for her dreams, an extraordinary account of her adventures and an exhilarating testament to her courage.

Climber s Paradise

Among the Selkirk Glaciers: Being an Account of a Rough Survey in the Rocky Mountain Regions of British Columbia. London: Macmillan, 1890. Greene, B.M., ed. Who's Who in Canada. Toronto, ON: International Press, 1936–37.


Author: PearlAnn Reichwein

Publisher: University of Alberta

ISBN: 9780888646743

Category: History

Page: 402

View: 131

Tenacious activism of the Alpine Club of Canada leads to mountain recreation and conservation.

Who s who in New Zealand

1 BRADEY , Lydia Margaret Bakewell ; Climber ; b Christchurch , 9 Oct 1961 , d of Royce Isabel ( née Bakewell ) ... Climber , some guiding and mountaineering instructing ; extensive climbing , rock climbing in many parts of the world ...




ISBN: OSU:32435021350038

Category: New Zealand


View: 980

Who s Who in World War I

... bullet-proof, armed engine capable of destroying machine guns, breaking through entanglements and climbing earthworks'. ... Sykes, Mark (1879±1919) British diplomat, principally remembered for his part in negotiating the notorious ...


Author: John Bourne

Publisher: Routledge

ISBN: 9781134767526

Category: History

Page: 336

View: 598

Featuring over 1,000 alphabetically arranged, biographical entries, Who's Who in World War One builds up a complete and vivid picture of the major figures of the Great War. The subjects are drawn not only from the political and military spheres of all thirty-two nations involved, but also from the social and cultural life of the period. This book's breadth of coverage makes it the definitive biographical guide to the First World War; * from the British air ace, Albert Ball, to the German foreign secretary, Richard von Kuhlmann * from David Lloyd George to Rasputin * from the British war poet Siegfried Sassoon to the Serbian assassin Trifko Grabez and the Emperor Wilhelm II. Each entry provides biographical data and basic factual information about its subject's role in the Great War, and in the case of major figures there is also an assessment of their reputation in the light of current scholarship. Maps, cross-referencing, a list of military ranks, a guide to further reading and a thorough introduction complete what is at once a comprehensive work of reference and a fascinating overview of a crucial period in twentieth century history.